Відео

No problem 😀

On that thickness with 180a I don’t think your welds could get stressed enough to see any benefit to c25, so definitely no reason to switch. Have you ever noticed a bunch of spatter? I expected far worse spatter and simply saw no evidence of it which is contrary to the “common opinion” lol.

No problem lol. Based on what I am seeing out there with frame issues it will be interesting to see how well repair attempts last. I definitely will pass if one comes my way lol.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg TY! I especially liked ur points about 4500 vs 3500/2k difference+ CDL. As a retired CDL "A"( still licensed until 2029) I still get a lot of requests for "favor" hauling.( I really prefer hunt/fish, LOL!) If I buy a Hobby farm before I "buy the farm", it wud b easy to tag "Farm Use", limited 150 miles) However I got lazy, and may just buy a Kit-Crate mini truck from Chy-na, and go, "vroom! vroom!" Gud Luk!!

Welcome and I am glad you liked the video 😀. If you can do the challenge your ability to mig weld common material sizes will go up drastically. It definitely takes some screwing around but once you get it mig welding makes a lot more sense.

No problem 😀. Simple consistent stringer welds will be the most consistent, and the most consistent means the most reliably strong. Many people will do a slight oscillation or stitch to keep consistent travel speed, and that’s ok. It will slightly affect the consistency of the root fusion but nothing like reducing the settings significantly and trying to lay a bead of caulk down. If you want a strong weld you need at least the first pass to have solid root fusion. It’s much easier to achieve fusion on 2nd and 3rd passes. A garbage root pass can’t be fixed easily, so it’s worth doing it right 😀

Weld dilution with certain fillers and base material can absolutely reduce strength. Great example was that hard face. It definitely was a convex bead with virtually no throat depth, but even so it’s the weakest weld I have ever tested. I bet JB weld would have lasted longer, and I think you’re right, it probably would have broke dropping it lol. It makes me suspect that the whole thing was pre cracked before I even tried bending it. When you get into alloys like that the outcome using it for the wrong application are often terrible. I figured it would completely explosively shatter when bent, but I bet 2 more passes would have had no difference. Similar issues can happen if you weld high carbon tool steels with mild steel fillers, the welds are so brittle any stress and they crack.

So I have a 3.0 and 4.0 battery. It’s surprisingly pretty good for a 12v tool. It works best with die grinder bits or mini scotch brite pads. Mini wire wheels it works poorly for. I also have the 12v band file and that eats the battery far waster than the die grinder. I find that it will last as long as the 18v die grinder with a 5.0 battery, the difference it the 18v I have cuts faster.

At 1/10th the price I wouldn’t even think of adding argon. Honestly I am not sure why so much bad information is out there on c100. Everything I had heard about c100 (like it has more spatter and it can’t weld thin material) seems to be false. Sure it does have a reduction in strength over c25, but on anything under 3/8th thick material I don’t think it would matter.

Thanks for the info. I definitely think 8018 would probably be far more suitable for average jobs far more than 11018. I really wanted to try 8018 over 11018 but it was actually harder to get a hold of for some reason lol.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg I know what you mean, this kind of rods are usually sold in big packages which makes them really pricey. Btw, there is also cellulosic electrodes with a higher tensile strength than your average 6010 such as 7010 and 8010. It would be great to test a combo of 7010+8018 or 8010 +9018 on the press.

Glad it helped you out 😀. Flux core functions much like all wire processes so mastering it will help you with all wire welding. The only thing is flux core (both self shielded/aka no gas required and gas shielded) is far easier to weld vertical and overhead than most of wire welding in general. So although you will have the skills to run beads in the flat position, short circuit mig and other wire processes will take a bit different approach to weld uphil. Dual shield (gas shielded flux core) welds much the same as Gasless, so it’s very easy to run it if you can make good Gasless welds.

No problem 😀

Thanks for the kind words, glad the videos help you out 😀

You’re welcome 😃. It’s all about sharing knowledge so everyone can succeed 😀

Interesting that 312 wouldn’t handle it and er70 took care of it. I wonder if the ability or the er70 to stretch without failing was a factor. When you get into hardened materials and unusual forces (vibration, impact force, etc) it can be a nightmare to get things to stay together lol. In many cases under welding the material with weaker weld fillers provides lasting solutions. Even brazing can work in certain cases where welds flat out fail. Trial and error can be the only solution sometimes, it sounds like you got a lasting solution 😀

No problem 😀, glad they helped you out.

He does have a sawzall of mine (he tore it apart in a video), has a similar “up north” accent, and is equally autistic. Brother from another mother I guess lol.

So that longer egg shape will tend to change to more of a round shape if you slow down (aka it gets wider) or if you run higher amperage. And it is so hot it loses the solidification line. The hotter you are the less discernible the line between solid and Liquid Metal will be.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Thank you man! The other day I welded for the first time and my beed was running a little tall, at 90amps on a 6013 2.0mm. The shape looked good but just tall, is this normal? I'm not sure if you mention this elsewhere, but how far away should the rod be from the work peice? Thanks again man I really appreciate it !

I will definitely do some more multi pass welds. I can tell you that on a bend test away from the face that a multi pass weld with 6013 as the cap will fail before a 7018 will. A combination of 7018s increase in strength and how it’s able to stretch without failing gives it the advantage. One of the odd concepts I discovered is it’s actually not possible to “out weld” a weaker weld deposit. Basically a 5 pass 6013 weld on thicker plate will still break in a bend away from the face the same way a single pass weld will. Some of that is due to the way the fillet weld plate gets bent in the shop press, it stresses the weld toe mostly. I will definitely need to revisit this.

No doubt gas shielded short circuit mig is tough to run overhead and vertical up. To a certain extent running low inductance can help (if it’s adjustable). Stick wise it takes a fair amount of time to even become functional with vertical and overhead. Flux core beats them hands down for ease of welding out of position. Pulse mig can weld uphill as easy too, but that requires an expensive welder. When it comes to co2 vs c25 out of position, I have a feeling it would be harder with co2. I didn’t run it uphill, but I can tell you that the bead tends to run more narrow and rope up a bit, which wouldn’t be a benefit running uphill. I will have to experiment a bit with it and see.

No doubt high strength steel is becoming a popular option. Thinner material combined with engineering allows less material to be used and can reduce cost in something like a truck. The downside is welding/repairing them with no understanding of the material could certainly end in disaster. I will have to do some weld bend tests on stronger steels to demonstrate the failures that can happen in surprising ways. I am glad to hear doing test welds have given you confidence and boosted your skills 😀. That’s why I talk about doing tests so much. Not only does it boost confidence, but it takes away a huge unknown. The more you know about your work the more you can know if it’s going to get the job done 😀. And it’s cool to do even a simple bend test and realize how strong a solid weld is lol.

Thanks for the super kind comment. I am happy to be part of helping people improve their skills 😀. It’s a lot of fun testing things and seeing what happens. I had a lot of worries about doing UA-cam because it’s saturated with welding channels and I just wanted to help people out. I definitely learned that I can still make a difference for people no matter the channel size, and if I can get even a few people to believe in themselves it’s worth it 😀

Thanks for the kind words 😀

Thanks for the kind words 😀

Glad to hear that 😃. You can reward me for the time I put in making the videos by practicing 😀.

I will have to find a can of dye and bust it out in the future for sure, great idea 😀.

Great tip on the identification. No doubt 309 is another common repair alloy. It works pretty good, I have used it a lot on random repairs with success. I will have to give 309 a shot on a bend and see what happens.

@@makingmistakeswithgreg Don't forget to do the book work lol!

I will definitely be covering a ton with the cast iron video I am working on. Knowing how to weld unknown and unconventional materials is not only a money maker, but it can be hugely important when it comes to “avoiding disaster” lol. It’s pretty crazy how fast things can fail when you use the wrong welding material or welding procedure on higher strength materials.

No problem 😀.

It’s all about smooth movement and feeding rod 😀. Once you get the rhythm it becomes easy.

Hope this helps you out: so you can weld mild steel to stainless steel, you would use 309 rods or 309 filler. 312 would also work. If you use 7018 or mild steel rods instead of 308 rods it will indeed join the material. However it will have undesirable properties. Corrosion resistance of the stainless (in the weld area) will be gone, under higher rest weld cracking will be more likely, and I would wonder about vibration resistance as well. I would suggest using 309 rods for stainless to steel and 308 for stainless to stainless to not see reductions in performance 😀

@@makingmistakeswithgreg what about 030./ 035 flux core to stainless steel plate?

@@thegarbagegladiators4735 Not Greg here, however I would expect small diameter flux core would probably be worse off than 7018. E309 rods would definitely work best but if that's not an option, I would choose 7018 over flux core. Not based off of any scientific reasoning though, just general experience.

309L is a great general purpose, or for joining steels of unknown/dissimilar carbon contents. 312 is better suited to higher carbon steels (i.e. chrome vanadium found in combination wrenches or tools). That said; I've had some high impact 309/312 joints between dissimilar steels fail, where ER70S2 continues to survive. 🤷🏼

@@ls2005019227 fortunately, I don’t do work that involves high impact. Some continuous strain, which 309L seems to handle well.

Thanks so much for sharing them 😀. I am a bit behind on getting to stuff 😀.

When i was first starting out I got farmed out to instrumentation guys to weld galvanized uni strut we used 5/64 309 stick rod on the galvanized tube worked really slick